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Metal and Gemstone Information
I thought you might be interested in some general information about
the Metals and Materials that I use in my jewelry. I’ve also
included some tips on taking
care of your jewelry.
- Fine silver is 99.9% pure silver. It will tarnish very
slowly but I store it in sealed plastic bags,
- Sterling silver – an alloy that contains some copper and
maybe some zinc for hardness. Sterling is 92.5% pure silver and will
tarnish so pieces of sterling jewelry are best stored in sealed
containers or a plastic ziplock bags,
- Argentium sterling silver – an alloy in which germanium
is used instead of the copper in sterling. Argentium silver
tarnishes more slowly than regular sterling,
-Vermeil – 24kt gold plated on sterling silver. I use best
quality vermeil elements in some of my jewelry and they will last a
lifetime.
- Gold-filled – gold-filled wire is created from a tube of
14kt gold that’s filled with another metal such as jewelers brass,
etc. The metal you see is karat gold and will not tarnish, chip, or
wear through in normal wear. It’s bonded in a process that uses heat
and pressure. The karat gold must be at least 1/20 of the total
weight and is marked 14/20,
-Copper – I use copper sheet in some bracelets and
earrings,
-Karat gold – Karat is how many parts pure gold (pure gold
being 24 parts): 14kt gold is 58% pure gold, 18kt is 75% pure gold,
22kt is 91.7% pure, and 24kt is pure gold. Pure gold is too soft to
use for jewelry. I can create designs in karat gold to order, and
-Rose gold – a gold alloy the includes some copper and has
a pink color. Rose gold is lovely alone and spectacular in
combination with yellow gold and silver.
Metal and Wire Shapes and Sizes
Pieces of flat metal are referred to as sheet. I use round,
half-round, and square wire and flat sheet in my designs. The size
is referred to as the gauge. The larger the number, the finer the
wire and the thinner the sheet. Wire comes in a variety of shapes.
-The fine silver used for weaving ranges between 26 and 30
gauge. The framework can be round or square wire in 18-20 gauge,
depending on the piece of jewelry.
-Wrapped and sculptured designs use a variety of gauges,
depending on the design. Most commonly I use 18 – 24gauge wire.
-Sheet is used to create bezel settings for stones to be used in
bracelets or as pendants, for example and for earrings, etc.
My Favorite Gemstones Gems are described by chemical composition, crystal structure, and
where they are found. Gems are further classified based on
properties like refractive index (how they bend light), luster,
hardness, etc. Perfection in appearance is of primary importance in
the finished gemstone. Many gemstones have long and complex
histories. Some specific gems have a lot of lore attached to them.
A gemstone can be a mineral, a rock, or any petrified material
that’s suitable for use in jewelry. Diamonds, rubies, emeralds,
sapphires, and amethysts are generally the most valuable. The gems
listed here are some of my all time favorites that I use in my
jewelry designs. Today, many stones are dyed or have their colors
otherwise enhanced. I do not use artificially colored or dyed stones
in my pieces. I do use some laboratory grown ruby and alexandrite
stones on occasion.
Agate – a form of chalcedony that occurs in many colors with
a variety of inclusions. Some people believe that wearing agate
increases perceptiveness and also brings good luck, inspiration and
strength to the wearer.
Alexandrite – a form of chrysoberyl which exhibits a dramatic
color change (red to green) depending on the lighting.
Amber – a fossilized resin that occurs in a range of colors.
Amber is thought to dispel negative energies and to encourage a
positive attitude. It was used for medicinal purposes at one time.
Amethyst – a form of quartz that ranges in color from
light to deep purple. The color is due to the presence of iron and
aluminum impurities According to gemstone lore, some people believe
that amethyst provides protection to the wearer (amulets of amethyst
were worn into battle in Medieval times), brings calmness, and might
even ward off drunkenness
Ammonite – fossilized prehistoric sea animals known as
cephalopods with a spiral form similar to a modern day nautilus. The
spiral form is clearly evident in some ammonites. In others,
portions of a large original fossil have been cut into cabochons and
polished. Some areas of the mineral portion of the fossil have been
replaced by pyrite so the polish ammonite has a metallic gleam.
Apatite – a transparent fluoro- or chloro- calcium phosphate
stone that’s easily confused with other gems. Apatite may be
colorless, pink, green, blue, violet, or yellow.
Aquamarine – generally a delicate light blue color,
aquamarine can occur in more intense shades. Chemically, aquamarine
is a beryl. The blue color of aquamarine is due to traces of iron.
At one time it was worn an amulet thought to promote safety when
traveling over water
Aventurine – quartz family with inclusions that affect the
color (chromium produces green to blue colors while iron produces
orange to brown shades. Aventurine is considered to encourage
motivation, creativity, healing, hope, and to bring abundance.
Azurite – an intensely blue gemstone that frequently occurs
with malachite. The blue color is due to the presence of copper in
the stone’s chemistry. Azurite has been used as a blue pigment since
ancient times. The ancient Egyptians used it as an eye makeup.
Azurite has long been used as a healing stone and it is reputed to
clear the mind and to enhance receptivity.
Beryl – this gem occurs in many different colors – the
intense green form is known as Emerald, while the lighter blue form
is Aquamarine.
Bloodstone – bloodstone is a deep green chalcedony with red
spots. It’s also called heliotrope. Bloodstone is thought to
encourage healing, improve decision making.
Chalcedony – quartz; occurs in a variety of colors. The group
includes both banded “agates” and onyx depending on the structure.
Carnelian – Carnelian is a translucent orange/red to
red/brown variety of chalcedony. The red tints are caused by iron
oxide impurities. Carnelian is recommended to improve mental clarity
and may assist people overcoming anger and maintaining self-control.
It was highly valued for ornamentation by the ancient Egyptians,
Greeks, and Romans It was reputedly used by the Egyptian goddess
Isis to protect the dead on their journey through the afterlife.
Carnelian was thought to provide increased energy. Ancient Egyptians
set carnelian with turquoise and lapis lazuli for enhanced power.
Chrysoberyl – once widely popular for jewelry, chrysoberyl is
now relatively rare. Chrysoberyl has hard greenish yellow crystals.
Alexandrite is one variety that exhibits color change.
Chryoprase – an apple-green form of chalcedony
Cinnabar – mercury sulphide ore with distinct red to brick
red color.
Coral – variety of colors depending on variety; frequently
dyed. Coral is thought to increase awareness and objectivity.
Provides calmness, quiets emotions
Diamond – made of pure carbon, diamond is the hardest,
densest, and rarest gem. Diamond is thought to encourage hope,
promote healing, and impart protection.
Emerald – a beryl stone with traces of chromium and sometimes
vanadium providing the intense green coloration, emeralds are
extremely popular for jewelry. Emeralds have been known since
ancient times and were mined as early as 2000 BC.
Fluorite – this gem comes in a variety of colors from purple
to pink and green and many shades in between. It has a glassy luster
and it fluoresces or glows blue under UV light. Fluorite is thought
to increase intuition, to foster harmony and balance in
relationships, and may attract abundance and wealth.
Garnet – there are several different forms of garnet, but
they are all related (pyrope – red with a brown tint, rhodolite –
purplish red/rose color, almandite – red with a violet tint,
spessartite – orange to a red/brown, grossularite –
green/yellow/brown, for example). The most common colors are
oranges, deep reds, and greens. Garnet is thought to encourage
friendship and fellowship
Hematite – a widespread and relatively hard iron ore that is
steely gray with a metallic luster when polished. Hematite focuses
energy, helps to balance emotions
Howlite – a milky white opaque stone that’s frequently
streaked with dark grey or black veins. Howlite is a fairly soft
stone and is often seen dyed to look like something else.
Iolite – a gorgeous blue/violet stone with a greasy luster
(like jade) that’s sometimes called water sapphire.
Jade – long considered a “sacred” stone, jade symbolizes
calmness, wisdom, and serenity. There are two recognized “forms“ of
jade – nephrite (creamy white to green and almost black) and
jadeite. The most common colors are green or white (jadeite), but
jade can occur in many colors. The various colors are the result of
impurities.
Jasper – an opaque form of chalcedony; fosters awareness and
balances emotional, physical, and spiritual energy
Labradorite – a silky appearing dark grey green stone with
flashes of blue, green and occasionally red. Labradorite can appear
as colorless or even red, but the dark grey color is typically seen
in jewelry. Labradorite is thought to symbolize the “third eye”.
Lapis Lazuli – Long thought to increase awareness and
objectivity, lapis has been considered to have healing and curative
properties. In ancient times, lapis found use as a pigment, a
cosmetic, and in medicines.
Malachite – Frequently associated with azurite. Malachite may
enhance insight, clarify emotions
Moss “Agate” – a transparent to translucent chalcedony with
green, brown, or black moss-like inclusions.
Obsidian – deep black volcanic glass
Snowflake Obsidian – white “snowflake” markings distinguish
this obsidian form.
Onyx – a form of chalcedony. Thought to foster fidelity and
resourcefulness, aid in realizing potential, and to promote decision
making
Opal – occurring in a variety of colors, opal often has a
gelatinous clarity with flashes of color due to water trapped within
the crystalline structure of the stone. Ancient Roman thought opals
were symbols of hope and purity.
Peridot – a brilliant intense yellow–green magnesium iron
silicate that’s the birthstone for August. Peridot (also known as
olivine) was mined in ancient Egypt and is believed to cure diseases
of the liver, improve digestive ailments and treat problems with the
kidneys, bladder, gall bladder, and the stomach.
Pearl – I use a lot of different freshwater pearls in my
jewelry designs – Biwa pearls, and blister pearls to name two.
Quartz – can be opaque or transparent and is the most common
mineral. Many common gemstones are quartz with various impurities
and inclusion providing the distinguishing characteristics of the
particular gem.
Rhodochrosite – a fairly soft stone ranging in color from
pink through reds to browns and black. Rhodochrosite fosters renewal
and expansion of consciousness
Rhodonite – pink to grayish with a glassy luster. This stone
is thought to promote peace, attention to detail
Rose Quartz – rose red to pink; may bring love and happiness
to the wearer, fosters emotional healing
Ruby – a corundum stone almost as hard as a diamond, rubies
are extremely popular
Sapphire – a corundum stone that can occur in a variety of
colors. It is almost as hard as a diamond. Typically thought of as
deep blue in color, sapphire occurs in a wide spectrum of colors and
also in a color change variety (violet) which changes color
depending on the viewing conditions.
Sard – a silicate similar to carnelian but darker brown
Smoky Quartz – smoky brown to almost black. Many people think
that smoky quartz banishes negativity
Sodalite – a relatively rare stone that ranges from deep blue
to light blue and white. Fosters wisdom, logic, healing.
Spinel – colors include a range of vibrant red tones, pinks,
and even blues. Spinel’s hardness makes it a popular stone for
jewelry.
Sunstone – a feldspar with a reddish to golden sheen;
displays iridescence (similar to Labradorite).
Tanzanite – (zoisite) Tanzanite’s color depends on the
orientation of the gem when cut, but it’s usually deep blue and
generally heat treated. Tanzanite is pleochroic (light traveling
through the crystal in one direction is absorbed differently than
light traveling in another direction, so there are color differences
depending on how you view the stone).
Tiger Eye – a chatoyant stone that occurs in several colors.
(Chatoyancy refers to the bright bands of light across the stone and
is a reflection effect) This “eye” effect is due to asbestos fiber
inclusions. Tiger eye is reputed to increase peacefulness and
clarity in the wearer.
Topaz – Known since ancient times and available in many
colors, the yellow to brownish color of this stone was extremely
popular for jewelry in Medieval times. Blue topaz is currently the
best known topaz color. Topaz was thought to foster success, love,
and health as well as strengthening the mind.
Tourmaline – available in an impressive array of colors,
tourmaline can mimic a variety of other gems and its hardness makes
it an ideal stone for jewelry. Some tourmaline contains two or three
colors. The tourmaline family includes several separate minerals,
one of which is elabite. Elabite accounts for most gem tourmaline.
Turquoise – a mineral of arid regions. Turquoise varies from
light sky blues to light grayish greens due to the presence of
copper. The polished stone has a porcelain luster. Turquoise has
been considered a gem since ancient times and adorned the rulers of
ancient Egypt and also the Aztecs. The Ancient Anasazi of Chaco
Canyon and the surround regions traded turquoise and fashioned
turquoise ornaments. Turquoise is believed to provide protection and
healing for the wearer.
Zircon – (zirconium silicate) is generally colorless or blue.
Brilliance is tremendous due to a high refractive index, but zircon
also tends to be brittle and can chip or scratch readily. The
ancients thought this stone could protect the wearer from disease.
Cubic zirconia is zirconium oxide. Cubic zironia has a cubic crystal
structure and possesses exceptional brilliance.
Caring for Your Diana
Kirkpatrick Art You Can Wear Jewelry
My art jewelry is delicate and should be handled with care. If a
piece ever snags on something, hold the jewelry securely and remove
the fabric carefully. Do not pull on the jewelry to avoid stretching
it out of shape.
Gold generally doesn’t require anything other than a soapy water
bath – just swish the pieces around and then rinse them and dry
them. You can also use a commercial gold jewelry cleaner.
Sterling silver needs frequent cleaning to keep it looking its best.
Argentium sterling silver and fine silver tarnish much more slowly
than regular sterling silver.
I’ve used soapy water with a little added ammonia to clean my silver
jewelry, but you can also use a commercial jewelry cleaner.
Ultrasonic cleaners may be helpful.
Please note that pearls, turquoise, malachite and a few other stones
are porous and should not be cleaned in a chemical jewelry cleaner.
I recommend keeping your jewelry in small zip-lock bags. Bagging or
boxing your jewelry will slow down the tarnishing process in your
silver items. You can hang necklaces and chain. Hanging chains will
keep them from tangling.
If you’ve perspired heavily, you might want to rinse your jewelry in
water, then dry it thoroughly before you store it. Do not put
jewelry away wet.
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